Instructions for sculpting acrylic nails on forms.
Prep: Perform customary nail preparation techniques for nail enhancements. Wash hands, remove polish, push back cuticles, shape natural nails, remove shine from nails, dust nails, apply pre-primer (sanitizer, dehydrator, pH balancer, etc.)
Apply forms: Apply forms to all 10 nails. Be sure the forms are snug under the free-edge so that acrylic does not seep underneath.
Prime: Apply primer sparingly and allow to dry thoroughly.
Apply Free-Edge: Pick up a large ball of white powder and roll it onto the form. The consistency of this ball should be dry enough to hold its shape when worked. With the belly of the brush pat and push the acrylic into the desired shape and length on the form. Be sure all the nails are the same length and shape. With the side of the brush, form a smile line where the pink of the nail body and the white of the free-edge should meet. Pinch in C-curves if desired on forms while the acrylic is still pliable yet firm enough to hold a shape.
Apply Stress Area: Pick up a medium-sized, wet ball of acrylic (usually pink or clear) and place in the stress area. Pat and push the product into place to build the nail and reinforce the stress area while creating a smooth finish. Stroke the acrylic out over the white free-edge.
Apply Cuticle Area: Apply a small ball of acrylic near the cuticle. Gently pat and push to move the product so it tapers towards the cuticle. This ball of acrylic should be of a wetter consistency so that the product works and flows easily, but not so wet that it runs into the cuticle. Keep the product at least the thickness of a business card away from the cuticle to prevent lifting.
Add Arches: Check the nail from all angles to analyze the shape and structure. Apply additional balls as needed to build the arch to provide strength and beauty to the nails. Stroke the product to taper it toward the free-edge. Be sure that the stress area is built up enough to bridge and connect the white acrylic to the body of the nail, while keeping the free-edge very thin.
Finish Work: Remove forms. File both sides of the nail groove so that they come straight out from the side walls to the free-edge. Shape the free edge of each nail. Shape and contour the surface of the acrylic and bevel the free-edge and cuticle areas.
Buff Nails: Use a block buffer or electric file to produce a smooth and even surface. Oil or buffing paste may also be used. Continue with a 3-way buffer to produce a high shine on the nails.
Post-Service: Have client wash. Take payment and schedule fill appointments.